When visitors come to Bagan they marvel at the magnificent
architecture of the ancient pagodas, the intricacy of the stucco work
and the mural paintings they see on the walls. However, no one remembers
that these magnificent structures they admire or the walls that
provided the spaces for the painters are made of bricks. But bricks
are so ordinary: what could possibly be so interesting about them? Many
notice only the difference in size between the bricks from the Bagan era
and contemporary bricks and others think that bricks are just basic
building materials. Beg to differ: look closely at the bricks of Bagan
and we can hear what they are saying.
The bricks were not only
building materials, they were also used as sculpting mediums. They were
cut into shapes, such as large Buddha images or the body might be of
brick while the face is of stone. In some instances bricks were used to
form the embossed portion of an Image on a wall, creating a figure in
relief. Many ornamental statues in front of the religious buildings
such as lions were first made with bricks and then covered with stucco.
Bricks allow us to visualize the scenes of the early days of Bagan. In
fact they are telling us about the history of Bagan, its greatness and
rich culture.
The popular belief is that Bagan became a parched land
because trees were cut down to bake the bricks and construct the
pagodas that we see today. The immense Dhamayazika pagoda at Bagan is
estimated to have needed about six million bricks. To compare, one
academic calculated that 7000 workers produced around 2 million bricks
per day at the rate of 300 bricks per worker when the Mingun Pagoda near
Sagaing was being constructed.
According to the inventory of
the Archaeological Department there are over 2000 pagodas in Bagan that
are under its care. But the locals believe that there were more than
4000 stupas, temples and pagodas at Bagan when it was at the apex of its
power-There is a local rhyme "the creaks of the oxcarts' axles" which
if put into numerical notation equals the number of pagodas at Bagan.
Even now the phrase "Big Red Brick Temples" is used to note the number
of remaining stupas and pagodas (more than 2000) under the Department's
care. Various bricks have been found in Bagan. Some bear traces of dried
paddy stalks, some contain more sand then others. Some were made only
of mud. There are many with letters imprinted on them, names of
villages or names of the donors. Some of these places, presumably where
the bricks were produced, still exist today.
Thus we can see that
the bricks were not all baked at Bagan. The regions that were under
the rule of the Bagan had to send in their quota of bricks to the
capital. Bricks with traces of paddy stalks might be from places where
paddy was cultivated, or bricks that seem a little sandy might be from
inland villages and bricks that contain more clay might be from a town
on the shores of a river or a lake.
Just imagine the activities
that accompanied the sending of these bricks to Bagan ! The Lord of the
town would be resplendent in his ceremonial clothes. His retinue in
their finery, would be there. Maybe the Lord was on his elephant.
Musicians would be playing their hearts out: for was it not a great
honour to be commanded by the King to send bricks to build pagodas and
participate in this opportunity to earn merit? Such good fortune for a
small town to be recognized by the royal court in this way!
Also
visualize the scene at the construction site. There would be stone
masons, and brick layers. Undoubtedly there would be court officials to
oversee the works. Stalls selling refreshments would be at a discreet
distance .
What about the umbrella hoisting ceremony when the pagoda is finished? It would be both a joyful and religious time.
The King and his court would be there for a grand parade - first the
monks, then the King on top of his elephant and his Queen beside him
and nobles following. At the edge of the festival ground there would be
stage plays and other entertainments as well as stalls selling native
products. These huge red bricks temples that dot the Myanmar
landscape, be it at Bagan or Mandalay or elsewhere, are testimonies to
the deep religious belief of the Myanmar people: a piece of baked earth
transformed into a symbol of merit. So when you visit Myanmar please not
only look at the ancient pagodas and temples but try to hear what the
ancient bricks are telling you.
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